Back in 2012 we had a few days based around the coastal town of Old Saybrook which was Katherine Hepburn’s town. We enjoyed the trip immensely back then, stopping at one of the nicest of motels just outside of that town but also taking a very beautiful scenic drive up through woods to the whimsical Gillette Castle. We rode the steam train too and took a trip on the steamboat. Both of which start at the town of Essex. In Essex we stopped for a meal at a 1776 historic inn, The Griswold which was a real gem.
Scoot forward to early this year and Marie asked me where I’d like us to go for our a short holiday to celebrate our anniversary week. She made up a shortlist that included Newport, Rhode Island or Mystic, CT (places we enjoyed visiting in 2008) or back to Essex again and this time to actually stay at the Griswold. I chose the latter.
After I finished work on the Friday just gone at 1pm, we had some pizza and Marie finished off at work so we could go and catch the 3.15pm Port Jefferson ferry in our town. We’d got the ferry a few times before, but only ever going on foot so this would be the first time taking the car on it.
We had both imagined simply driving it onto a cavernous size flat space below on the ferry but, no! We were directed up and over a ramp and Marie had to stop with us half way down a big slope with the sea just about sixty yards away from the end of the ferry and it felt quite dizzying! And you only have a very tight space from which to alight and shuffle along into the door to the ferry lounge.
Marie’s seahorse brooch went flying to the deck below as she just about squeezed through her driver’s seat door (so I’ll re-order her another one!).
Aside from the tightness, the whole thing is a well-oiled machine and we enjoyed the novelty of it.
It was windy and still chilly so we stayed on the large covered mid-section of the ferry seats and had a drink and snacks.
Back in 2012 we had only seen Essex very briefly. It had way more to it than we imagined, and is very attractive and very historic (many of the mostly white shingled buildings from the 1770s to 1800) and a lot of restaurants, gifts shops etc. Port Jefferson is part quaint, part a working town but Essex is full-on charm. The Griswold itself is great, a real national treasure and also the staff were extra friendly.
We remembered the tavern, sort-of. Our ground floor room facing the front street had old-worlde charm even if a slightly compact bed for a couple.
We had a 8.30 reservation in one of the restaurant rooms, and it did not disappoint. Marie had the melted brie and pistachios and I most delicious, buttery chicken pot pie whilst we shared pistachio ice cream. I had two cocktails before we went into the crowded, lively tavern bar area where a band was playing and we got more drinks. Marie was happy on a gummy.
“what larks, eh Pip!?” (from google images)
Saturday, March 22nd
We didn’t mind this time that the steam train and boat trip aren’t yet running because it’s low season.
We would have enough to do just pottering towns and enjoying ourselves.
Breakfast (paid for, with our room) at the classy, quirky breakfast room/s next door then out to explore Essex some more. There are a few charming shops opposite, whilst at the end of the road from the inn to the right you quickly get to the water, with a lot of ducks and to the left water-facing restaurants, the Connecticut River Museum and indoor boat building.
The long Main Street consists of a lot of fine old captains’ houses in perfect condition (mostly white with black trimmings and historical plaques), other gift shops, restaurants etc up to a small roundabout and more fun, appealing stuff.
Strangely, there was going to be a St Patrick’s Day Parade mid morning! Slightly late but we thought we’d watch for a bit when it did start.
A lovely walk up to the roundabout, a mosey around gift shops like Harley & Marley [where we bought a print of a bear in evening jacket that we’ll probably frame and put in our kitchen], we then went into a gourmet quality chocolate shop and bought about a dozen individual ones in fun designs (all excellent, especially the hazelnut hedgehogs and lemon creams).
Everywhere we went were dogs, especially labs and retrievers which are two particular favourites of ours. Of course.
The Irish parade was lighthearted fun and I reeled off some photos, but mainly we were just enjoying seeing more dogs. There was a show of vintage cars at the end of the parade, which we especially liked. We also walked around the serene bit of green park in front of the river, which we’d been on back in 2012.
Back opposite the Griswold – actually “Griswold Square”, which even features the Griswold Inn gift shop too – we enjoyed a coffee sat indoors, then went into Essex Duck next door. This sells a vast amount of bath ducks of many characters, themes and celebrities – which is a thing now, and probably in the UK too? The door was closed but a chap ran over from another chocolate shop (Chocolate Geeks) to open up. It turns out the same couple own both the Essex Duck Shop and Chocolate Geeks. Anyway, we spent about five minutes dazzled by various bath ducks – the Mick Jagger was one that was great, obviously. Then we fitted in our second chocolate shop by of course going into ‘Geeks’, buying two truffle “shots”, which are soft truffle chocolates you eat with a spoon in a shot glass (they are currently back at home on our drinks cart to try when we’re ready). They also have a multitude of fancy, artisanal chocolate bars from around the world including Britain.
Now something a little different, as Marie drove us a really short distance to a warehouse brewery called Surfridge. One of those airy, spacious ones that encourages families too, it was very tasteful and bright. We sat at the bar where I had a flight of four very good ales.
Onwards on another short drive to a place that we had kind of been to in 2012. A delightful former old pharmacy that had been a Moroccan cafe (and shop) back when we last went, but before this trip Marie had found out that it is now a French cafe in the same place, Cocotte. Lunch was phenomenally delicious and we had a good chat with the French chef too. They sell a lot of French etc items from shelves too, pretty much a cafe-cum-shop. Our egg cocotte with bacon lardons was so good. Some meals in a restaurant can leave you thinking, “uhm, was it really worth all that money?”, and other meals can wow you, knowing that you couldn’t recreate it yourself. The small lunch here was just that!
We could have done more pottering and consuming, but we needed a change in the afternoon before our evening meal at Penny Lane in Old Saybrook. As I mentioned earlier, in 2012 we’d been on a wonderful drive up to Gillette Castle in East Haddam, the castle being the whimsy of a wealthy actor William Gillette who had it built in 1911. He played Sherlock Holmes on stage. Back in 2012 the woods on the drive were lush, and we had our first close encounter with deer (last week, driving into our housing complex in PJ there was a family of five deer right in front of us, silhouetted against the mist and street lamp)! Gillette castle was open then in 2012, so we did the tour. Today it wasn’t yet the season for the “castle” (not so much a castle; really just Gillette’s home at the time, of course) to be open yet. But at least the grounds were open today so Marie drove us the same route, which was still beautiful despite comparatively barren post-winter trees. You’re almost the only car around. Nice and sunny though.
When we got there quite a lot of people had the same idea, clearly, as there was a good number milling around the large wooded grounds. Amazing views over the river and Goodspeed Opera House. Marie posed in front of the castle, and I posed in the same spot outside the castle with the best river view behind me that I had posed in last time.
Where were the critters? We did see a lot of large birds of prey in flight though, which could be eagles but Marie reckoned falcons.
Back at the inn to relax a bit, and to shower and change for dinner at Penny Lane at 7.30.
Getting ready to go out, I remarked to Marie how the positioning of the two sconce lights either side of the bathroom mirror were very flattering if you stood within about fifteen inches, but if you stood further back not so much. I thought, “uhm, I’m rather handsome!”. Then I naturally stood a bit further back, and it was more “uh, maybe not”. Marie laughed and said, “yes I know, I thought oh my God, I’m gorgeous but you have to stand in the zone!”.
I said we could have the sconces fitted to metal shoulder pads as a permanent item of clothing.
Back to our evening: Penny Lane is a pub in Old Saybrook that we also went to 2012. Neither of us quite remembered the interior, and we sat outside thirteen years ago. The food today was classy, and I hadn’t expected it to be quite so much! The pub is reasonably plain but nice inside, billed as “English style”, and lighting a little low. Marie’s corned beef reuben sandwich was superb (she declared it the best reuben she’d ever had!) and my hangar steak and gorgonzola mashed potatoes also the dog’s proverbials!
I had a “new fashioned” really good and strong cocktail, and we shared a bread pudding dessert.
Old Saybrook’s Main Street is more average looking than quainter towns around, but perhaps Katherine Hepburn liked it that way. There are photos of her going into the town quite a bit, though she had a stunning waterfront, big old house.
Then back to the Griswold. The only thing separating our room and the main tavern bar was the wine bar. We were heading straight for the bar tonight though, and stood with drinks watching an excellent bluesy rock (sometimes folk rock) band – the Local Honey Project – with some fine guitarists giving it plenty. The place was hopping. The ceiling really is possibly unchanged and just slightly manicured since 1776, the bar is all wood and brass and there are side areas at which we sat on comfy seats after a while.
Live music is afternoons and nights, at least on Friday and weekends.
A fantastic night, and back to the room. Marie was quite high on a gummie or two, me a little tipsy probably and we were looking for something to watch on the kindle (the inn makes a point of keeping the rooms free of tv’s so as to keep it authentic). We decided on picking a ‘Young Ones’ episode. For those who don’t know, it’s an iconic, anarchic, silly and hilarious – for us and some family/friends anyway – British comedy series from the early to mid 1980s. I randomly picked one episode ‘Nasty’, which turned out to be the one where all the housemates share a disgustingly muddy bath – not at the same time – and in which Alexei Sayle plays a not-really driving instructor but yes-really a vampire.
(from google images)
Lights out.
Sunday –
It was a beautiful, sunny morning (perhaps slightly chilly) and after breakfast we strolled the 100 yards down to the water and to the Connecticut River Museum. I feel like we’ve become “zen” in museums and galleries. By that I mean able to appreciate them, relax, take our time and just see what we want to see. Mind you, this is a museum to be zen in – it’s not the Victoria & Albert. The older woman with a Southern accent on the welcome desk was extremely nice and chatty, and helpful and we found the whole museum to be delightful. I won’t bore readers with details, but some very interesting exhibits including a very early attempt at a basic submarine – Bushnell’s ‘Turtle’ from 1775 – which could crudely attach a bomb to an enemy warship. The museum runs birdwatching boat cruises too, and they have a wall size log on what was spotted and when, from bald eagles to seals. Hey, when we have a break between going to clubs and skateboarding with the other kids Marie and I would don some binoculars and give it a go.
We also learned that from the 1930s on local yachtsman decided to start “Frostbite Racing”, which meant dinghy races starting out from Essex and along the East coast but in freezing cold winter! They found it exhilarating apparently and the races are still held twice a year.
It puts you in mind of the Polar Bear Plunge. It’s something that happens in the U.S and Canada every year to raise funds for charity. You swim in freezing cold waters. Yes, I know, but some people love it and there is a ‘Polar Bear Club’ I think!
Then out on a drive slightly north towards the town of Chester via Deep River. The drive was beautiful. Deep River is more of a small town close to Chester that many probably pass through, but it had some delightful looking cafes and we went in one that Marie had been looking for (but that google mistakenly told us was closed), Nest. A lovely, peaceful and colourful little place, and very compassionate. A bit from their website… “The Nest positively impacts the lives of neurodiverse young adults with autism, intellectual/developmental disabilities, and related disorders by nurturing their unique skills, strengths, and preferences.
The Nest takes the lead in providing authentic and enriching employment and social opportunities for neurodiverse young adults as well as offers support for their families. Through education and empowerment programming, The Nest increases public awareness and acceptance to ensure that neurodiverse young adults are seen and valued.”
There is even a quiet room, but really it’s just a very nice, bright and airy cafe that also sells hand made crafts from locals and many with disabilities.
After that, we continued to very close-by Chester. Chester centre is probably a bit smaller than Essex, but also a hip and rustic, very pretty place which we really enjoyed. We had quality time at another and much smaller brewery, Little House Brewing where we chatted a lot with others at the bar. I had another flight, which – typical for the U.S – consisted of nearly all quite strong ones but delicious. We bought two crowler size (at least double) beer cans for me to go.
One chap we were talking to also recommend another brewery, Fox Farm, but when Marie checked on her phone it would have been a 30 minute drive further out. I’d had enough beer for now, and we’d save that for another visit. We were enjoying this mini break so much that Marie does want to return to Essex later this year if possible! After all, it’s just an hour ferry journey and not too long a drive. We’ll do the steam train and maybe the river cruise next time.
Then we got an altogether different kind of flight, not of drinks but of ice cream samples. At Honeycomb Craft. Very grown-up flavours! Pistachio, cardamom cherry, Irish cream etc. We sat on a bench outside in the sun.
Chester, below
And back to the Griswold, a room regroup and we sat in the tavern again. A very good, laidback acoustic singer did his thing and we took the only free table a few feet from his performance, but we enjoyed it. We ordered up the fish and chips to share and a sweet potato flat bread (pizza really). I had a hot buttered rum and we wassap’ed a friend some photos. We think the Griswold would be well appreciated by many of our friends and family.
Back in the room in the evening we played our usual word games on phone and tablet (wordle, connections, quordle, quordle extreme and sequence) and watched another Young Ones episode, which turned out to be Marie’s favourite, ‘Cash’, in which Vyvian is pregnant with his punk baby but it turns out to be simply a bloated flatulence phantom pregnancy, and which also features a poltergeist.
Monday –
It wasn’t even our anniversary until tomorrow and we still had lots of fun stuff to do yet.
We’d got lucky with the weather, for sure, because when we looked out of our inn room window there was plenty of rain (which was to last all day). The two things we had planned for our half day before getting the ferry back mid afternoon again wouldn’t need good weather: Pez and Cracker Barrel.
The breakfast room was very quiet this morning, as of course most visitors come just for the weekend.
On the drive from Essex to Bridgeport, about three quarters of the way there you come to the PEZ factory and museum/shop. In the UK these days, I think many Brits are more aware of American sweets/candy (and to some extent vice versa too). PEZ sweets are unusual and memorable for one main reason, for their dispensers! These are a novelty, and always along a theme often based on popular cultural items and celebrities or icons. Marie grew up with PEZ so she was particularly excited for this humble but colourful and lighthearted museum. Well, not museum so much really, more of an entertaining display and you can also watch the factory workers through large windows.
We learned right away that PEZ began in Austria in the 1930s, and then Czechoslovakia before the first factory was began in the U.S. PEZ takes the letters from the beginning, middle and end of the German word for peppermint, Pfefferminz.
We enjoyed the vast display of dispensers through the decades, some very limited edition, some very quirky, and you can find and then tick off ones from a “bingo” card they give you as you enter and get a free dispenser/sweets as you leave.
And finally we had brunch at a Cracker Barrel, which is a Southern-themed, much loved American chain restaurant that we can’t miss if we’re passing close by. There is always a shop, that sells anything from home decorations to food items to clothes and always tasteful.
Between us we had pancakes, bacon, ham, Southern fried chicken, grits, fried hash brown tots, deep fried okra etc etc from the vast menu so we left happy and stuffed.
What a wonderful few days, and we’re keen to go back to Essex once a year now!
TravelHoglet 